Hyperfocal math is old-school
The H = f²/(N·c) + f equation dates back to early 20th-century film photography and still underpins modern focus tables.
Circle of confusion values are format-based approximations. Choose the next tighter format or stop down for stricter critical focus.
Tip: Try sliding focus distance slightly—if your DoF shrinks faster than you expect, you may be near the focal plane and need to stop down.
Depth of field is the zone in a photo or video that appears acceptably sharp. This calculator helps you predict how much of your scene will be in focus based on your camera format, lens, aperture, and focus distance. It’s a practical tool for photographers and videographers who want to plan the look of a shot, whether that’s a creamy background blur for a portrait or wide‑open sharpness for a landscape.
The concept is simple: depth of field gets shallower when you use a longer focal length, a wider aperture (smaller f‑number), or focus closer to your subject. It gets deeper when you stop down the lens, use a shorter focal length, or focus farther away. Sensor size also matters because it changes the circle of confusion, which is the tolerance for what counts as “sharp enough.” This calculator uses commonly accepted circle‑of‑confusion values so you can compare formats like full‑frame, APS‑C, and Micro Four Thirds.
Real‑world examples help clarify how to use the results. If you’re shooting a head‑and‑shoulders portrait at 85 mm and f/1.8, you’ll see a very shallow depth of field, which is great for isolating a subject but requires precise focus on the eyes. If you’re photographing a cityscape at 24 mm and f/8, the depth of field will be much deeper, and the hyperfocal distance can guide you to keep both foreground and background sharp.
For video, this is especially useful when pulling focus or when you need consistent sharpness across a moving subject. A small shift in focus distance can dramatically change the depth of field at wide apertures, so the calculator helps you decide when to stop down or adjust framing. It is also handy for product photography, where you may need the entire object sharp without losing too much background separation.
Keep in mind that stopping down too far can introduce diffraction softness, and zoom lenses can breathe at close focus, slightly changing framing. Use the results as a guide, then confirm with a quick test shot if critical focus matters. The calculator runs entirely in your browser, so you can use it on set without needing an internet connection.
The H = f²/(N·c) + f equation dates back to early 20th-century film photography and still underpins modern focus tables.
Smartphones use depth maps and segmentation to fake shallow DoF; the tiny sensors natively have very deep focus.
Stopping down past roughly f/11 on many sensors softens detail as diffraction spreads light wider than the pixel pitch.
Many cinema DoF charts still reference a 0.025 mm CoC from 35mm film days—even when used on digital Super35 sensors.
Focus breathing changes angle of view as you rack focus. Wider lenses tend to breathe less; cinema lenses correct it by design.
Depth of field is the tolerance zone where subjects still look acceptably sharp. It balances sensor size, focal length, aperture, and focus distance. Narrow DoF is great for portrait separation; deep DoF is crucial for landscapes, macro focus stacking, and VFX plates that need consistent sharpness.
Use this calculator when blocking shots, planning rack-focus moves, or deciding whether to stop down or switch lenses. The numbers update instantly, so you can try “what if” scenarios: move the camera back and zoom in, or step closer and stop down—see which combo preserves framing while keeping focus breathing manageable.
If you need to be stricter than the default circle of confusion, pick the next smaller sensor option or input slightly shorter focal lengths to simulate a tighter CoC. The math runs entirely in your browser, so you can keep it open on set without connectivity.